CARNE DIEM GRILL by Dharshan at ALATI Bangkok

Following the launch of its new culinary direction—Grill, Fire, Smoke—and the appointment of Phillip Taylor as Executive Chef, ALATI Bangkok entered a new phase of expression through CARNE DIEM GRILL by Dharshan pop-up. This pop-up ran from 22 to 25 January 2026. For Thailand's community of meat lovers and long-time followers of Chef Dharshan Munidasa, the Japanese–Sri Lankan chef behind Ministry of Crabs, the pop-up offered a rare opportunity to experience his fire-driven approach to cooking firsthand. Munidasa remains the only Sri Lankan chef to have led a restaurant onto Asia's 50 Best Restaurants list, where Ministry of Crabs held its position from 2015 to 2022.

The opening evening began with a short address by Managing Director Stefano Ruzza, who welcomed invited guests, media and industry figures before introducing Chef Dharshan and outlining the alignment between Dharshan's philosophy and ALATI's evolving identity. Fire and smoke, central to Munidasa's cooking language, resonate closely with ALATI Bangkok's current direction, making the collaboration feel considered rather than transient. The evening also marked the debut of the latest iteration of Ignis Maximus, a grill–smoker designed by Chef Dharshan himself. Capable of reaching temperatures as high as 750 degrees, the machine allows meat to retain internal juiciness while achieving a deeply caramelised, smoky exterior in a relatively short cooking time—precision through intensity rather than duration.

Dinner opened with two of ALATI Bangkok's signature preparations. House-Smoked Norwegian Salmon arrived delicately perfumed with smoke, its silky texture contrasted by cool, gently sweet mustard ice cream. Thai orange added brightness, avocado contributed creaminess, and seaweed tapioca crisps brought salinity and crunch, creating a layered interplay between smoke, sweetness and freshness. Hickory-Smoked Wagyu Tartare followed, rich yet finely balanced, with the smokiness woven subtly into the meat rather than imposed upon it. Tomato introduced acidity, while crisps and pickles provided textural contrast and lift. Both dishes were paired with the 2023 Pétillant Naturel by Jérémie Huchet from the Loire Valley, a lightly effervescent blend of folle gris, sauvignon blanc and melon blanc. With its lemon zest sharpness and soft tropical notes of mango, the wine refreshed the palate and complemented the smoke without dulling the delicacy of the opening courses.

The next sequence introduced dishes from Chef Dharshan that bridged comfort and technique. White Corn Soup offered a restrained Japanese interpretation of Western corn soup, built on white corn and dashi. The result was gently sweet, savoury and quietly umami-driven, allowing the natural character of the corn to remain at the forefront. Beef Crackling with Sourdough followed, made from steak off-cuts transformed into crisp, intensely savoury shards. Served with warm sourdough and a tallow candle, the dish encouraged interaction, the molten fat adding depth and aroma while reinforcing a philosophy of full utilisation.

The meal reached its centre with the main courses, all drawn together by fire, smoke and careful pairing. The highlight was a Bone-in Westholme Wagyu Rib Eye cooked on the Ignis Maximus, its exterior deeply charred while the interior remained supple and richly marbled. The wagyu was later covered with a generous amount of sal de fleur and left to absorb its flavour before being brushed off. The flavour was pronounced yet clean, with smoke integrated rather than dominant. It was accompanied by mashed potato stuffed in a half red pepper and burnt Japanese vegetables that contributed bitterness and depth. New Zealand Lamb Racks followed, cooked to retain their natural sweetness and tenderness, paired with crushed Brussels sprouts whose earthy bitterness provided balance. Supporting both meats was Beef Crackling Rice, its savoury crunch adding another layer of texture. Two Spanish wines accompanied the mains: the 2022 'LZ' Bodega Lanzaga from Rioja, offering freshness, red fruit and gentle spice, and the 2018 'Gago' by Telmo Rodriguez from Toro, deeper and more structured, with dark fruit concentration and firm tannins. Together, the wines allowed diners to move between elegance and intensity, echoing the duality of the meats themselves.

A dairy-free Chilled Tomato Soup followed as a palate cleanser, light and refreshing, its natural acidity resetting the senses after the richness of the grill.

Dessert concluded the evening with Strawberry & Watermelon Consommé from the ALATI team. Clean, delicate and subtly sweet, the dish focused on clarity rather than indulgence, allowing the natural character of the fruit to come forward. It was paired with the 2022 Spätlese Rosé by Alois Kracher from Burgenland, Austria, whose gentle sweetness and lifted acidity mirrored the dessert's freshness, bringing the meal to a composed and thoughtful close.

CARNE DIEM GRILL at ALATI Bangkok was less about spectacle and more about alignment. Through Chef Dharshan Munidasa's disciplined use of fire and smoke, the pop-up underscored a shared philosophy rooted in clarity, respect for ingredients and purposeful technique. It offered a glimpse into ALATI's evolving identity—one that embraces intensity without excess, and confidence without noise—suggesting a direction that feels both grounded and quietly ambitious.

For diners wishing to stay updated on ALATI Bangkok’s upcoming collaborations and special events, further details are available here.

Credits

Article: Wariya Intreyonk

Photos: courtesy