A Measured Return to the Flame at ALATI at Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok
- Editor-in-Chief
- Jan 5
- 4 min read
For almost a decade, ALATI at Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok has been recognised as a Mediterranean restaurant, but that chapter has now drawn to a close. With the arrival of a new, young Executive Chef, Phillip Taylor, the restaurant enters a fresh phase defined by a clear culinary identity: Grill, Fire, Smoke. This shift signals more than a menu refresh, introducing a new rhythm to the dining experience through a bolder food direction, relaxed atmosphere, and a distinctive visual language.
Guided by memory, experience, and terroir, Executive Chef Phillip Taylor draws on a career shaped by major gastronomic cities, including London, Shanghai, and Bangkok. His menus reflect a personal journey—at times nostalgic, at others geographical or experimental—anchored by confident technique and a thoughtful selection of ingredients. Grilling and smoking sit at the core of this new identity, not as statements in themselves, but as tools used with precision across every dish.
Spread across more than 40 dishes, from starters through to desserts, the Grill, Fire, Smoke menu explores a measured balance of flavour and form. Grilling and smoking techniques are applied with restraint rather than excess, shaping dishes that are visually composed and confident in flavour. The menu is organised into clearly defined sections, allowing diners to move through the experience with ease while highlighting the breadth of the kitchen's new direction.
The first section, IGNITE, offers a tempting selection of appetisers, including the Beetroots & Smoked Feta Salad. This dish highlights the earthy flavours of beetroots paired with smoky feta cheese, complemented by the slightly peppery arugula, juicy pear, and a delightful blend of sweet-tart raspberries. A light almond and raspberry vinaigrette drizzled over the dish gives it a finishing touch.
House Cold Smoked Salmon is conceived as a single, unified experience rather than a composed plate. Silky cold-smoked salmon and ripe avocado are brought together with Thai orange and grain mustard ice cream, a combination that introduces citrus brightness and gentle spice. Mixing all the elements before eating allows the flavours to integrate fully, balancing richness with freshness and creating a layered yet composed expression on the palate.
Smoked Angus Beef Tartare continues the opening with quiet intensity. Finely cut raw Angus beef is mixed with cornichons, capers, pickled shallots, and chives, building freshness and savoury depth into the tartare. Smoked tomatoes, sourdough crisps, and basil leaves add aroma and texture. In contrast, a light infusion of apple wood smoke gently deepens the flavour, lending warmth and complexity without overshadowing the meat.
Smoked Chicken Liver Parfait closes the opening sequence with warmth and restraint. Smooth chicken liver pâté forms a rich base, topped with a layer of jaew jelly that brings gentle heat and acidity to cut through the depth of flavour. Paired with grilled sourdough, the dish remains indulgent yet balanced, offering a measured transition into the courses that follow.
In the FLAMED FISH & SEAFOOD section, the Charcoal Grilled Fish Fillet showcases the catch of the day, which the wait staff will happily share with diners. Marinated in a blend of Thai herbs, the fish is grilled over charcoal to achieve a perfectly crispy skin while keeping the meat juicy and tender. Accompanying the fish are smoked tomatoes and green asparagus, which add delightful flavours, contrasting textures, and visual appeal to the dish.
Another highlight in this section is the Thai River Prawn, built around the natural sweetness and firmness of grilled Thai river prawns. The prawns are served with café de Paris butter, whose aromatic richness melts into the dish, alongside linguine tossed in a tomato-based crustacean sauce. The sauce leans towards umami and is gently sweet, with a subtle herbaceous note that rounds out the acidity of the tomato, bringing depth and cohesion to the plate without overpowering the prawn.
The Australian Rib-Eye MBS 8+ from the FLAMED MEAT section is the perfect dish for two. This carefully selected cut, boasting 8+ marbling, is renowned for its tenderness, juiciness, and rich flavours. Diners have the option to choose their preferred level of doneness for the steak. It's served with a delightful array of accompaniments, including mustards, beef jus, salsa, and slow-roasted garlic, ensuring a memorable culinary experience.
In the EMBER section, a variety of desserts brings the meal to a close. For those drawn to something light and refreshing, Strawberry & Watermelon offers a clean, composed finish. A clear strawberry and watermelon consommé forms the base, layered with fresh berries, bright yuzu sorbet, and crisp sesame tuile, balancing sweetness with acidity and texture for a dessert that feels both restrained and revitalising.
Taken as a whole, ALATI's Grill, Fire, Smoke menu feels deliberate and well-resolved, balancing comfort with quiet ambition. From appetisers through to dessert, the progression is cohesive without feeling rigid, allowing technique, ingredient quality, and restraint to guide the experience. It marks a considered evolution for the restaurant—one that respects its past while confidently establishing a new voice, inviting diners to rediscover ALATI through a lens that feels contemporary, grounded, and distinctly its own.
ALATI at Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok
Hours: Daily, 08:00 - 00:00
Tel: +66 2162 9000
Location: Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991, 9 Rama I Rd, Khwaeng Pathum Wan, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330
Credits
Article: Wariya Intreyonk
Photos: Wariya Intreyonk and courtesy
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