Beyond the Bustle at KŌKULABO Izakaya Bangkok

When it comes to izakaya dining, sophistication is rarely part of the expectation. The genre is more often associated with bustle and informality—places defined by noise, familiarity and quick gratification rather than refinement. With KŌKULABO Izakaya Bangkok, however, Koleido Lifestyle Group gently repositions that narrative, offering an izakaya experience shaped by precision, premium ingredients and thoughtful restraint.

KŌKULABO Izakaya Bangkok is the group's latest opening, presenting Japanese comfort food through a more considered lens. The setting leans towards understated luxury, while the menu remains grounded in recognisable forms, striking a balance between approachability and polish rather than pursuing theatrical reinvention.

At the helm is Chef Run—Wacharun Imarramsak—whose path into Japanese cuisine is rooted in long-term commitment rather than trend. His career began more than two decades ago in the United States, following a university degree in film and animation. A lifelong fascination with Japanese culture—spanning cuisine, design and anime—eventually redirected his focus fully into the kitchen. Over the past 15 years, he has served as head chef at a private sushi restaurant, refining a philosophy anchored in clarity of flavour, disciplined technique and respect for ingredients.

The menu reads familiarly at first glance, echoing dishes found in izakayas across Japan and beyond. Yet closer attention reveals subtle decisions that elevate each plate beyond expectation.

The NIBBLES section sets the tone with small dishes designed to be shared casually, yet executed with intent. Kombu Cheese & Crackers is deceptively restrained: crisp, salty crackers paired with cream cheese marinated in kombu. The cheese is dense and velvety, carrying a gentle marine umami that deepens its lactic richness, finishing savoury rather than overtly sour. It is a quiet, composed opening that prepares the palate without demanding attention.

Gobo Curry Fries offer a more expressive counterpoint. Burdock root is sliced, coated in fragrant curry batter and fried until golden. The exterior delivers a clean crunch, while the interior remains firm and fibrous, releasing an earthy sweetness distinctive to gobo. The curry spice leans aromatic rather than aggressive, warming the palate, while a side of sweet mayonnaise—finished with paprika—adds creaminess, sweetness and a mild smoky kick that completes the dish.

Tomato Kimchi introduces brightness and contrast. Plump cherry tomatoes are marinated in a lively kimchi mixture, absorbing chilli heat and fermented acidity while retaining their juiciness. The addition of locally sourced pineapple brings natural sweetness and tropical acidity, creating a layered balance that shifts between savoury, spicy and refreshing.

Among the COLD PLATES, Marine Salad unfolds with quiet complexity. A selection of seasonal raw fish from Japan forms the foundation, each slice clean and supple, offering subtle sweetness and a soft, yielding texture. The fish is layered with crisp greens that add freshness and structure, while cherry tomatoes provide gentle acidity and bursts of juiciness. Segments of orange introduce citrus brightness, lifting the dish aromatically and on the palate. A light vinaigrette ties everything together, adding sharpness without overwhelming the fish's delicacy, resulting in a salad that feels composed, refreshing, and texturally balanced.

Olive Salmon leans into richness with restraint. Thin slices of salmon are lightly marinated with olive oil and shoyu, allowing the fish's natural fattiness to coat the palate smoothly without heaviness. The olive oil enhances the salmon's buttery texture, while the shoyu introduces savoury depth and gentle salinity. Lemon adds a clean, citrus edge that cuts through the richness, and mustard seeds provide intermittent bursts of heat and crunch, creating a dish that moves between softness and sharpness with measured elegance.

From the HOT PLATES section, Ebi Karaage stands out for its layered seasoning. Plump prawns are fried until the exterior turns crisp while the flesh remains juicy and springy. The seasoning draws on garam masala, introducing warm spice notes—cumin, coriander and clove—that bloom gently rather than dominate. A squeeze of lemon cuts through the richness, sharpening the prawn's sweetness and keeping the dish light despite its fried nature.

The RAW section allows ingredient quality to take centre stage. For sashimi, Chutoro and Salmon are clear highlights, presented together in a single progression of texture and flavour. The Chutoro is cut with precision to achieve equilibrium between fat and lean, offering a silky mouthfeel that melts slowly and releases savoury richness without heaviness. The Salmon contrasts with a translucent, jelly-like texture—supple, clean and softly sweet—creating a gentle rhythm between the two fish that unfolds gradually on the palate.

The nigiri selection continues this dialogue. Shima Aji delivers a firm yet yielding bite with clean, mineral notes, while chutoro and salmon reappear in nigiri form, their textures subtly reshaped by warm, lightly seasoned rice. The balance between fish and shari is measured and precise, allowing temperature and proportion to guide the experience rather than excess. Together, the nigiri express clarity and restraint, reinforcing the kitchen's focus on purity of flavour and control.

ROLLS bring a more indulgent register without tipping into excess. The Crunch centres on deep-fried maki filled with enoki mushroom, delivering audible crispness, topped with tuna, salmon and white fish bound in black pepper mayonnaise. The Punch layers texture throughout, with rice mixed with tempura flakes for crunch, avocado and cucumber fillings for creaminess and freshness, finished with scallop, spicy mayonnaise and ebiko for salinity and pop. Caterpillar combines eel, shrimp tempura, and ebiko-stuffed maki, all wrapped in thin avocado slices that add buttery softness, resulting in a roll that is rich yet measured.

The BIGGER PLATES section leans into heartier territory. Gindara Saikyo Yaki is a confident centrepiece. A generous slab of black cod is marinated in saikyo miso and grilled until lightly caramelised. The surface develops sweetness and gentle char, while the flesh beneath remains firm, moist and intact, resisting flaking even at the touch of chopsticks. A squeeze of lemon sharpens the miso's richness, bringing clarity and balance to each bite.

Beef Saikoro Chahan follows with a deeper savoury character. The fried rice is cooked until the base crisps, releasing smoky, toasted aromas as it's stirred. Each grain remains distinct, coated in seasoning without greasiness. Cubes of F1 beef, cooked to medium, retain juiciness and umami depth, while okra introduces freshness, colour and a subtle vegetal note that lifts the dish overall.

Dessert closes the meal with restraint. Matcha Mochi Ice Cream offers gentle bitterness against chewy softness; the matcha flavour is clean and focused rather than sweet. Yoghurt Jelly Ice Cream provides a lighter contrast, its softly set texture and mild tang refreshing after the savoury richness, bringing the experience to a calm, composed conclusion.

Drinks play an equally considered role at KŌKULABO Izakaya Bangkok. Alongside a curated selection of sake and wine personally chosen by Chef Run, the cocktail programme reflects thoughtful collaboration, including contributions from Studio Ryecroft. Bloom Boom blends Japanese vodka and sake with grapefruit juice, saline and fizzy water, resulting in a drink that is bright, lightly savoury and refreshing. Pinku Americano reinterprets a classic with Japanese gin, Campari, sakura vermouth and tonic, its floral nuances softening bitterness while retaining a crisp, structured finish.

At KŌKULABO Izakaya Bangkok, familiarity is the starting point rather than the destination. Through precision, balance, and quiet confidence, the restaurant reframes izakaya dining as both refined and accessible—proof that sophistication can coexist comfortably with tradition.

KŌKULABO Izakaya Bangkok

Hours: Daily, 17:00 - 23:00

Tel: +668 4292 3445

Website: https://www.kokulabobangkok.com/

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/kokulabobangkok/

Email: dining.siambangkok@kempinski.com

Location: Siam Patumwan House, 414 Soi Kasem San 1, Wang Mai, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330

Credits

Article: Wariya Intreyonk

Photos: Wariya Intreyonk and courtesy