There are restaurants that modernise Cantonese cuisine by stripping it down, making it lighter, prettier and more abstract until little of its original character remains. Then there is Wing Restaurant Hong Kong, where Chef Vicky Cheng takes the opposite approach. Rather than distancing himself from tradition, he sharpens it. Familiar flavours become cleaner, more precise and more elegant, yet never so refined as to lose their warmth. It is this balance between polish and soul